Sunday, May 23, 2010

Special Dispatch from Florence: May 12: Galleria degli Uffizi (Gallery of the Offices)

Ah, the Uffizi Museum (called the “Offices” because of its location in what was once a suite of super-fly office suites for grand ducal bureaucrats). I’m no longer sure that it quite deserves its reputation as one of the world’s top museums. Sure it has masterpieces, including just about everything from the Italian Renaissance section of your college art history textbook, but it has some big downsides: e.g., if you want to get a close look at the “Primavera,” be prepared to elbow your way through one of the massive tourist groups which populate the place, and the signage is almost non-existent, in a we-assume-you-already-know-everything-about-this kind of way. Plus the line, even with reservations, is ridiculous, and the toilet facilities are guaranteed to make you want to hold it – in short, the whole experience, apart from 15 or so mind-blowingly amazing paintings, is fairly unpleasant. The Uffizi is the Ron Jeremy of museums.