Wednesday, March 31, 2010

March 22: Musée des Collections Historiques de la Prefecture de Police (Museum of the Historical Collections of the Police Prefecture)

So promising in conception and yet so disappointing in execution. This museum, displaying the history of Paris’ “guardians of the peace,” has crime scene photography! burglary tools! murder weapons! In my mind, my visit was going to be like making out with Sherlock Holmes while McGruff the Crime Dog brought us brandy from a cask around his neck.

The first blow to my fantasy came when I had to work my way though about four rooms detailing the history of the museum. Sure, it’s mildly interesting that it began as a display in a late 19th century Universal Exhibition. But do I need to know about its moves to new display spaces during the 1970’s? Not so much.

When I finally hit the crime-fighting rooms, I found that the crimes were pretty old news (mostly 19th century) and also not chosen to illuminate the methods of the police. In fact, one of the cases which gets the biggest display space was “solved” only because the killer sent a confession to the police in remorseful old age. Yawn. At least I understood what went on in that case – others lack any labeling whatsoever, with just some coils of rope and dark lanterns jumbled together under glass.

But never fear – the Orsay Museum has come (temporarily) to the rescue. A special exhibition, “Crime and Punishment,” just opened there, and it features a healthy chunk of objects borrowed from the Police Museum. They are displayed with signage which puts them in historical and artistic context, so that you actually know what you’re looking at.

So, if you need me, I’ll be in the Orsay Museum, telling Sherlock how hot I think he is when he smokes that pipe. Oh yeah.