Of course you should visit the Musée d’Orsay. It has an amazing collection of 19th century art, laid out in a way that allows you to see the evolution of modern art – just start here and you’ll understand what a change this was. And then you can go look at Van Gogh, Gauguin, Daumier, get into a Monet vs. Manet aesthetic throw-down, whatever.
But… prepare yourself. If it’s a required stop for you, remember that it’s a required stop for everyone else, too. And the Orsay is not designed for crowds. There are narrow hallways and small rooms which can cause the crowd to behave like a slo-mo mosh pit. There are enough multi-level platforms and staircases to make your feet hurt just looking at them. And the arrangement requires you to backtrack to fit all of the rooms, leading to much tourist anxiety about missing something.
Crowds plus layout problems does result in some spectacular tourist misbehavior: I saw many people fondling statues, two people having a snack in the galleries, one girl applying hairspray, and one older American quiet-shouting at his wife “why don’t YOU hold the map for once!” as he shoved the museum plan into her hands and stormed off.
Some general tips: Don’t go on a Tuesday, when the Louvre is closed – you’ll have to wade through the overflow. Don’t try to look at every single work, or you’ll be exhausted by the time you get to the upper floors. And do make time for people-watching, a.k.a. “Paris’ Funniest Tourist Meldowns.”
