Tuesday, April 13, 2010

April 6: Musée Pasteur (Pasteur Museum)

The Pasteur Museum is confusing. Not because of its subject-matter – even I know about pasteurization, and the signage and displays do a good job briefly explaining Pasteur’s other activities (work on rabies, fermentation, crystallization, etc.). Rather, it’s confusing because of its administration. You make your way to the museum entrance through the Pasteur Institute (still a medical research center). The door is locked, with a sign saying “wait patiently until the next visit begins.” You don’t trust signs that say “wait patiently,” so you go bother someone in the nearest open office, who tells you to wait patiently. You wait. An intimidating woman bursts out of the museum door, takes your money, and pushes you into Pasteur’s old laboratory. You contemplate still-well-preserved rabbit spinal cords in jars and visit Mr. and Mrs. Pasteurs’ bedrooms, just down the hall (in case he hasda hankering to preserve some rabbit in the middle of the night?) and then think “Well, that was mildly interesting. Time to go meet my friends for Japanese pastries!” You walk out of the museum and get halfway down the hallway to the exit when the intimidating woman comes shouting after you “No! Now we will visit the first floor of the Pasteur apartment!” The intimidating woman is scary, so Japanese pastries will just have to wait. You are led back into the museum/apartment and down some stairs to see the dining room, sitting rooms, etc. You notice that someone seems to have pressed “pause” in 1900. After you have shown sufficient appreciation for this scientific Graceland, the intimidating woman takes you to the basement to visit Pasteur’s crypt. Truly one-stop-shopping for the Pasteur admiration!

Yeah, so a little complex. But it’s all worth it for the crypt, which is coated in beautiful Byzantine-style mosaics symbolizing Pasteur’s achievements – e.g., rabid dogs frolicking on a gold background.