Tuesday, April 13, 2010

April 12: Centre de la Mer – Institut Oceanographique (Sea Center – Oceanographic Center)

I’m sorry, but if your website is going to go on and on about how you were founded by Albert the First, Price of Monaco, I’m going to expect something much cooler. There should be roulette, and tuxedos, and possibly James Bond. A couple of aquariums and signage which looked like it was produced by a kindergarten teacher to decorate her classroom is just not going to cut it.

Well… maybe I would have enjoyed it more if I wasn’t quite so not-phobic-but-close about fish. Seriously, those things are weird. But still, your average PetCo has more of them than this so-called Oceanographic Center.

April 11: Musée de La Vie Romantique (Museum of the Romantic Life)

A Museum of the Romantic Life? That must encompass so much, I thought. The Romantics were painters, musicians, poets, dancers, party-goers, diplomats – and it was a sweeping, pan-European movement. How would you even start when planning a museum?

Well, if you follow the example of this museum, you take the house of a crappy fashionable portrait-painter from the Romantic era, add some random crap that used to belong to Georges Sand, and voila! by calling it the Museum of the Romantic Life you assure that some people will be fool enough to visit your craptastic collection.

Sometime in late February: Musée National Gustave Moreau (National Gustave Moreau Museum)

Sorry, folks – my mind was so blown by my visit to the Moreau Museum that I forgot to write about it. But it’s fitting to post a review on the same day as the Pasteur Museum, since both are museums dedicated to one man’s life and work, located in that man’s last living space. The difference is that Moreau knew that he would be donating his house as a museum after his death, and spent the last years of his life arranging it as a tribute to himself – e.g., arranging portraits of his ancestors in family-tree order on every available wall surface in his bedroom. Creeeepy.

The core of the museum is in the two floors of studio space, which are filled with cases of drawings and, on the walls, oils sketches and paintings. If you like his style, you’ll have a lot of fun (and his work looks a lot better in person than in pictures). Moreau is called a “symbolist” artist, but I would describe him as “educated psychedelic” – a mixture of Christian imagery with classical lore with sexy androgyny with blood with Indian architecture with hot demons, all rendered in shimmering paint and obsessive drawn details. In short: full-on crazy-pants (a quality which may extend to the guards as well – one of them was polishing his shoes while I was there, complete with shoe polish tins, sponges, and brushes).

April 6: Musée Pasteur (Pasteur Museum)

The Pasteur Museum is confusing. Not because of its subject-matter – even I know about pasteurization, and the signage and displays do a good job briefly explaining Pasteur’s other activities (work on rabies, fermentation, crystallization, etc.). Rather, it’s confusing because of its administration. You make your way to the museum entrance through the Pasteur Institute (still a medical research center). The door is locked, with a sign saying “wait patiently until the next visit begins.” You don’t trust signs that say “wait patiently,” so you go bother someone in the nearest open office, who tells you to wait patiently. You wait. An intimidating woman bursts out of the museum door, takes your money, and pushes you into Pasteur’s old laboratory. You contemplate still-well-preserved rabbit spinal cords in jars and visit Mr. and Mrs. Pasteurs’ bedrooms, just down the hall (in case he hasda hankering to preserve some rabbit in the middle of the night?) and then think “Well, that was mildly interesting. Time to go meet my friends for Japanese pastries!” You walk out of the museum and get halfway down the hallway to the exit when the intimidating woman comes shouting after you “No! Now we will visit the first floor of the Pasteur apartment!” The intimidating woman is scary, so Japanese pastries will just have to wait. You are led back into the museum/apartment and down some stairs to see the dining room, sitting rooms, etc. You notice that someone seems to have pressed “pause” in 1900. After you have shown sufficient appreciation for this scientific Graceland, the intimidating woman takes you to the basement to visit Pasteur’s crypt. Truly one-stop-shopping for the Pasteur admiration!

Yeah, so a little complex. But it’s all worth it for the crypt, which is coated in beautiful Byzantine-style mosaics symbolizing Pasteur’s achievements – e.g., rabid dogs frolicking on a gold background.

Thursday, April 1, 2010

April 1: Pavillon de l’Arsenal (Pavillion of the Arsenal)

Yawn-fest. This space has special exhibitions (they’re currently dismantling one), along with a medium-sized permanent exhibition on the urban history of Paris – you know, prehistoric settlement patterns, urban planning projects, and… sorry, just fell asleep there for a second. It’s just texts, videos, and scale models, and has much more detail than the casual tourist will want and far less detail than the urban history buff would demand. Go to the City of Architecture instead.

April 1: La Maison Rouge - Fondation Antoine de Galbert (The Red House - Antoine de Galbert Foundation)

Massive, massive PR fail for the Maison Rouge – just one mention in NY Mag and this place would be overrun with visiting Brooklyn hipsters, dancing at its Thursday night DJ happy hours in the café, slouching through Sunday morning brunch + guided visits, ogling at the current exhibition of album cover art… wait, wait. It’s probably better to leave all this to the few, the proud, the really cute in-the-know French bohemians. Yeah, so, contemporary art foundation – no permanent collections – just special exhibitions. The current one, a massive and fascinating collection of albums designed by artists (Leger, Dali, and did you know that Sonic Youth had LP covers designed by Gerhard Richter and by Richard Prince?, oh and a whole ton of Fluxus stuff). Not too much text or analysis, leading to a bunch of “ummmm, am I supposed to know about Polish avant-garde electronic music?” But you know that records are cool enough on their own – you don’t need no stinking analysis.

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

70 More Museums to Go (At Least..)

Just for kicks, and since it's a rainy day, I've made a list of the remaining museums that I know about in Paris. Send me a comment if you know of any more, or if you want to come along! Because, who can resist a museum devoted entirely to fans, or one that combines an aquarium with exhibits on the history of immigration, or one devoted entirely to tennis?